It’s been 40 years since my two feet walked this ground. The cement umbrella-ed artisan booths are still here. An aura of tranquil living impresses me – now as before – and it runs counter-point to the dramatic setting. Clouds still curl over the mountains. Something about the high-altitude air makes visitors feel they’ve never been clean before. But surrounding the market I remember from years ago are now rows and layers of canvas-covered awnings that expand the market to two or three times the size it was.
If you visit Otavalo, today as 40 years ago, it is likely for the artisan market. I had made the trip several times from my home in Colombia as a young woman in my twenties. I ate huge pancakes and drank my first kefir and orange juice in a hippie restaurant just across the square from the booth where I bought wool yarn for the blanket I would crochet. The hippie restaurant is no longer there, but before I venture out too far, my husband and I eat in a fabulous modern cafe. Then we set out to follow our memories. Will I find the same style of woven wall art that, 40 years later, still decorates our home? Will I find skeins of rough wool yarn, so natural that bits of dry grass and seeds are part of each creation?
Ruanas are still for sale, and as numerous. These long, sometimes very thick wraps of woven wool that have slits to fit your head through were ever-present and worn by everyone when I lived in the region. When I bought my own, from this outdoor market in Otavalo, and learned how to wear it with ease, I had finally felt at home with my South American experience.
Five times today, I circle the market, walking to relive my past. I stroll the rows across, and the rows up and down. I get lost in a tangle of tables where people sell items they no longer want next to the alley where you can buy sewing machines that were already second-hand when I was last here. Finally, I buy a new ruana, stash it in a bag, not sure if it is really the one I want, but knowing I need to go through this ritual.
On the few days of the week when there isn’t a market, the square in the middle of this town is empty, aside from the concrete circles with the odd umbrella covers. To me, these circular remnants are a wonderful touchstone, one thing that hasn’t changed, sturdy and reliable. Everywhere else I walk on this market day displays how the world has changed: cell phones and a million chargers for sale on top of a plastic folded table, warm wool sweaters and gloves and hats that are knitted by machine, wall-hangings in colors so bright I know there is modern chemistry in their dyes.
I want to buy some natural yarn, and think I will start a new project while we travel. I pick a craft woman, one among so many, and enjoy the back-and-forth of negotiations. The price is so good that I want to buy more than I can pack into my carry-on suitcase. I need a crochet hook, and can’t remember the word in Spanish. I try to describe what I want. The woman understands and takes me at a run into an alley where, in a brick-and-mortar shop, everything I could possibly need is for sale. The yarn I buy is soft and so warm my fingers are soothed just by the touch.
We walk to the odd-and-ends section of the market. My husband searches through tables and tables of screws and bolts, ancient watches, and finds a coin from last century to purchase.
It’s all a wonder: the stroll, the shopping trip, the search for memories.
I pull the ruana from the bag and put it on, walking away from the Otavalo artisans, comfortable again in this place of mists and mountains and forty-year old magic.
Please join the Monday Walk with RestlessJo and friends:
What a lovely time capsule you create! đŸ™‚ đŸ™‚ It’s been fun walking with you. Itching to get the knitting needles out now! Thanks, Susan đŸ™‚
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RJo – hurry with those knitting needles, because no one wants to knit when it’s hot outside;) I am so happy to have you along for my walks! And so happy to join the long list of your Monday Walkers đŸ™‚
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Just back from Carnival at a little hill village called Alte. Great fun but I’m putting my feet up now. I’ll look for the needles later. đŸ™‚ đŸ™‚
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Maybe a knitted cozy for your feet to stave off the winter cold?
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Now there’s a thought! A ‘big foot’ so I can hop about? đŸ™‚ đŸ™‚
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I do not expect to every walk in South America. I’m not sure why. My husband doesn’t want to travel much more..stay closer to home – California – but we’ll see. So thank you for taking me to South America.
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Judy – staying close to home isn’t such a bad thing! You are welcome to come along with me anytime ;))
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Thanks again for taking us on one of your walks! I am snowed in and don’t get to go much of anywhere these days!
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You with your overabundant snow and us on the west coast with our surprising rain-rain-rain, what a spring this is. I am happy I helped with the cabin fever!
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I have been to the market in Otavalo! In fact, the table cloth I bought in 1999 is in use right now.
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Anabel!!!! You are a first. I haven’t yet met up with anyone in the blogging world who has been here (maybe this will bring some more past visitors) So glad you still have your tablecloth (and the memories) đŸ™‚ – Susan
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It was only a brief stop on a day-trip from Quito. Our one and only visit to South America (so far). I don’t know if we have any pictures of the market. If we do, they didn’t make the cut here and will be back in the loft long ago.
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It is indeed special to relive our memories…and to discover some things are still there! Thank you for taking me to the this interesting market. I could feel its vibe.
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Tiny – So glad to have you along. You’ve been connecting with your past also, so you can especially feel the fun đŸ™‚
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Otavalo? Amazing that you should have been there. To me Otavalo refers to a very specific Indian tribe, with a very specific traditional costume. I saw a couple in Sao Paulo, in Brazil once, selling craft and I asked them. They were embarassed. (Probably illegal!) Cheers Susan.
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Equi – Yes, that traditional garb is unmistakable. You would love the hats they sale – I think the traditional Panama hats are made in the region. Thanks for visiting đŸ™‚
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Your post brings back my own memories of Otavalo — though ‘only’ 20 years ago, in my case. Really enjoyed this.
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K/E – I am so pleased you were able to relive your experience. Isn’t that what these kinds of blogs are about? Thanks for dropping by. – Susan
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Very true! I’m glad you posted that one.
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An interesting walk, Susan. I have never been to South America.
Thanks for following my blog, which is much appreciated.
Best wishes, Pete.
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You’re welcome, Beetley. I’m interested in reading your fiction, so expect to see me there often! Thanks for coming along to Otavalo – Susan
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