If you live in Ukraine and travel to Moldova, you are warned by people who care for you. The borders are contested, they say, and crossing them can be a problem. The Moldovan people are not friendly, there is no place to stay, it is such a small country, why do you plan to go? At this point, you wonder about your plans, but since you want to go to Romania, and Moldova stands in your way, you go.
And never regret the visit. The bus ride from Odessa is through rolling hills that become lined with vineyards the closer you get to Moldova.
At the border, the bus driver collects all the passports, hands them to an official-looking man, who hands them back to the driver in a short time, who then hands them to the woman sitting closest to the driver, who opens each passport to the photo page, and gives them back precisely to each traveler on the bus. It seems everyone but you knows the routine, and you are grateful you are in the company of people who know what to do.
You pass through village after village of beautifully-organized streets with one-story houses that are well-cared for, each seemingly with a new roof that gleams in the sunlight. The houses, all rectangular tile-roofed and designed simply with rows of windows along each side, have tidy gardens that surround the houses and grow flowers and vegetables. You see fruit trees as your bus passes by, thinking maybe they are peach or apricot.
When you arrive in Chisinau, you are delivered to the front of a beautiful train station. You walk around the interior, dazzled at the architecture. Just before you begin to worry about getting a taxi and finding a hotel, a driver waves you over to his taxi. You wonder what language to use. Perhaps neither your sad attempts at Russian nor your English will be appreciated. But your concern comes to nothing as the taxi driver knows better than you where you belong, and verbal language is not necessary for communication. He talks the entire way with hand motions, and you understand a good deal of it. Very quickly he delivers you to “Hotel Cosmos”, really the best place in town for travelers like you.
The hotel is a humorous short story come to life in plaster and crackle-mirrors. You remember reading that the hotel has certain floors that have been renovated, and that it is essential you request one of those floors. But you can’t at the moment recall: is the 4th-7th floors to be avoided or the ones you should request? Regardless, you are given a key and directed to the elevator. When you arrive, you decide it is to one of the newly renovated rooms, but wonder about some of the furnishings.
You have a view out the window that helps you get to know the city, giving you a nice introduction to places you want to walk. Most people would not consider Chisinau beautiful, but you feel its charm as you take your first, tentative walk around. Just outside the hotel, there is an enormous concrete street corner that seems to be more a monument than a street corner, with steps and a statue, and that ends in a busy traffic round-about.
Which way should you walk? You let the traffic pull you up the hill, and walk toward the modern shopping area. You see all the usual stores and the glass and steel architecture, but there are also lovely overhanging trees that make your walking pleasant.
There is a group of people setting up for an outdoor concert, and people beginning to bring a dinner to sit and enjoy. You begin the walk back to the hotel, searching for food along the way, intrigued by a sign that seems to be advertising burritos, Mexican style. You follow the signs and your appetite and wonder about tortilla chips in Moldova.
No need to worry. Up a concrete ramp way, across the traffic circle from the hotel, you sit in an authentic-looking Mexican restaurant and order burritos. They come with tortilla chips and salsa, and you are very happy. It’s not that you wouldn’t have wanted a Moldovan meal, but that it’s nice to see a bit of the western hemisphere well-received so far from home.
The next day you walk toward the farmers’ market. Along the way, you see the more typical eastern-Europe cityscape, with tall apartment buildings, each apartment with a small balcony dangling from the living room. You see a mass of electrical wires and a mish-mash of vehicles crossing the streets. And at the market, you walk past stall after stall of all those luscious vegetables and many fruits that you saw growing on your ride into the city.
A woman walks up, greets you by grasping both your forearms, talks in a language that is not quite Italian, and pats you on the shoulder as she leaves. The woman completes what the city has begun. You feel you have been welcomed to a country that is very pleased to have you pass through.
Linked to Restless Jo’s Monday Walks
One Small Walk... 
I have always flown over Moldova, but then I was always in a hurry those days. Your journey there by bus and your keen observations in the city give me a picture of this small country. Sounds to me that there are both Eastern European and Mediterranean influences – and Mexican food apparently has a wide reach!
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Tiny – I was so surprised by this little gem. Maybe not the most magnificent place, but welcoming and interesting and in the midst of change!
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That’s lovely, I can feel your anxiety dissipate as the post goes on.
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Anabel – That’s one of the luxuries of travel, isn’t it? – getting to form your own opinions on places that are new to you 😉
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This was just lovely. I never would have thought of Moldova, but you make it should charming.
Alison
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Alison – that’s the perfect word – charming. If you’re ever in that area, don’t be shy about visiting Moldova – it’s a bit difficult to get to, but you’ve done that kind of thing a time or two! Susan
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A very specific country as most of ex-USSR ones! They still keep that influence on you!
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Ann – We so enjoyed our visit there!
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Susan, I love the floral path along the street. Plus, the train station looks inviting with its architecture. Thanks, Keith
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Keith – the flowers were so lovely! I’ve misplaced some of the photos I took, including the ones from the interior of the train station. But I still remember the exquisite detail of the tile work and beauty of the wood beams. Thanks for coming along to the new blog. Susan
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Well, we never considered going to Moldova before and appreciate a glimpse into “life as a tourist” there. I wasn’t too surprised about anything except the Mexican food – particularly the chips and salsa!!
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Beth and Joe – Moldova was a pleasant surprise. We’d only intended it as a stop-along-the-way, but wish we’d spent more time there. Susan
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Really, who thinks about a visit to Moldova? But now, thanks to you Susan, I will, as you’ve described some charming vignettes that make me want to investigate this area further, including the food! Don’t you love it when something totally unexpected and wonderful transforms your journey? Anita
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Anita – Of course, you know there are the other kind of surprises – the ones you try to forget – so it’s nice to celebrate simple places that are inviting. Oh, and I don’t believe I mentioned Moldovan wine…
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Looks like they may have improved the roads since I was there in 2006. They were truly abysmal then. I didn’t have trouble with the border to/from Moldova, but had to bribe the Transnistria border guards.
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Oh, my. Those are the stories we heard about before we visited (2010.) I think on any given day, you can have a great or horrid travel experience, just depends on darn luck!
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I’ve just spotted in the side bar ‘my newest book…’ This implies, not your first? I had a quick look on Amazon and it seems you were a volunteer? Can I ask what kind of a volunteer, and if in fact these walks, or a version of, appear in your book? I don’t possess a Kindle or I might have gone wild with my pennies 🙂 I presume it’s downloadable in Pdf as well? I already have a downloaded book that I’ve never yet remembered to read so maybe I’ll have to invest in a Kindle at some point.
Whatever the answers to the above, it makes very charming reading, Susan, and thank you very much for the link 🙂
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You are so kind, RJo. I was a Peace Corps volunteer, a government-sponsored group that offers cooperative work partners to other countries. And the book – if you have an email, I can send you a copy. It’s the longer version about the whole experience of adapting (or not, in my case!) I’m glad you noticed it, and would be happy to send it!
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That would be fantastic, Susan. Really? I’d feel mean taking advantage. I’ve already mentioned it on Monday’s walk so it might get a bit of attention. I never know how successful that is. 🙂
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I would be honored to have you read the book – it’s short enough that it isn’t a big investment of time. Thanks for the mention – I just found your email on your blog, so it should be simple to send. Hope you enjoy it!
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Thanks so much, Susan. I’ll look forward to it 🙂
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What a marvellous adventure you are having, and what lovely memories you are going to have.
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Thank you so much, Becky. Making memories is a truly fun pursuit. And Portugal – we are heading that direction in September, so I think I’ll pop over and see what you are up to! Susan
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I love your writing!
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What a wonderful compliment. Thank you, Lucid Gypsy, and many thanks for dropping by the blog. Susan
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Thank you for the introduction to Moldova. I have found many times in the past that not expecting anything brings most pleasures, and experiencing places for yourself beats listening to others about them and bailing as a result!
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Liesbet – so true! We would never have experienced Moldova if we’d listened to what everyone said. Former Soviet countries seem to be off most everyone’s list, but Moldova in my view, is an unsung gem (especially the countryside).
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Moldov cruto
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